Arabic gum, also known as acacia gum, can be used as a stabilizer or emulsifying agent in skincare formulations due to its ability to form a protective film and bind water. When making a face or body cream, Arabic gum helps to thicken the product and create a smooth, spreadable texture. Here’s a simple method for incorporating it into a cream:
Ingredients:
- Arabic (acacia) gum powder: 2-5% of the total formula (acts as a thickener and stabilizer)
- Carrier oils (e.g., jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, or coconut oil): 20-30% (moisturizing base)
- Water or floral water (e.g., rose water, distilled water): 50-70% (hydration)
- Emulsifying wax: 3-5% (helps combine oil and water phases)
- Essential oils (optional): a few drops (for fragrance and additional benefits)
- Preservative (optional, but recommended if you want longer shelf life): as per manufacturer’s recommendation
Instructions:
1. Prepare the water phase:
- Heat the water or floral water to about 70°C (160°F).
- Dissolve the Arabic gum in the heated water by sprinkling it slowly while whisking to avoid clumps. Let it hydrate for about 10-15 minutes. This will create a gel-like consistency.
2. Prepare the oil phase:
- In a separate container, gently heat the carrier oils and emulsifying wax until fully melted. The temperature should be similar to the water phase (about 70°C).
3. Combine oil and water phases:
- Slowly add the oil phase to the water phase while continuously whisking to emulsify. A hand mixer or immersion blender works best for smooth blending. Continue whisking until the mixture thickens as it cools down.
4. Cool down and add essential oils:
- Once the cream reaches room temperature, add essential oils and preservatives. Stir well to distribute evenly.
5. Transfer to a jar:
- Pour the cream into a clean, sterilized jar and store it in a cool, dark place. If a preservative is added, the cream should last for several months; without it, it may only last a few weeks.
Benefits of Arabic (acacia) gum in skincare:
- Hydrating and soothing: It attracts moisture and can create a barrier that helps lock in hydration.
- Skin tightening: When used in creams, Arabic gum can provide a temporary firming effect on the skin.
- Natural emulsifier: It helps to combine oil and water, creating a smooth and stable product.
By incorporating Arabic gum, you add natural stability to the cream while providing gentle hydration and texture.
can I skip the emulsifying wax in this step and keep it all natural?
Yes, you can skip the emulsifying wax and keep the cream all-natural, but without an emulsifier, the oil and water phases will tend to separate over time. This creates a challenge in achieving a stable, creamy consistency. However, there are natural alternatives to emulsifying wax that can help bind the oil and water phases, or you can make an anhydrous (water-free) cream that doesn’t require emulsification.
Two approaches to keep it all-natural:
1. Use a natural emulsifier alternative:
If you still want a mix of water and oil, consider using a natural emulsifier like beeswax or lecithin. These aren’t as strong as emulsifying wax but can help stabilize the cream to some extent.
- Beeswax: Beeswax can act as a mild emulsifier, but it won’t create the same creamy texture as emulsifying wax. It also tends to make the cream thicker and more balm-like. Use about 5-8% beeswax in your formula.
- Lecithin: Derived from soy or sunflower, lecithin helps bind oil and water and adds a nourishing element to the cream. It works well in combination with Arabic gum to help stabilize the formula. Use about 0.5-1% lecithin in your recipe.
Steps:
- Heat the beeswax or lecithin with the carrier oils.
- Hydrate the Arabic gum in the water phase as before.
- Slowly combine the oil and water phases while blending vigorously.
- The texture will be more like a lotion or a balm depending on the beeswax concentration.
2. Create an anhydrous (water-free) cream:
Anhydrous creams or balms don’t contain any water, so they don’t need an emulsifier at all. You can skip both the water and emulsifier, relying solely on oils, butter, and Arabic gum. The Arabic gum will add texture and help form a protective film on the skin, although it won’t hydrate like water-based creams.
Ingredients:
- Carrier oils: 50-70%
- Butter (e.g., shea butter, cocoa butter): 20-30% (adds richness and stability)
- Arabic gum powder: 2-5%
- Essential oils: Optional
Steps:
- Melt the carrier oils and butter together gently.
- Stir in Arabic gum powder once the oils cool down to avoid clumping.
- Add essential oils if desired.
- Pour into a jar and let it solidify.
This approach results in a rich, nourishing balm that moisturizes deeply without separating, and it’s entirely natural.
If you prefer a lighter cream-like consistency but still want to avoid emulsifiers, consider using minimal water and shaking the container before each use to mix the oil and water phases
what kind of natural and organic preservatives can be used in face or body cream?
When making natural and organic face or body creams, adding preservatives is essential to prevent the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold, especially if your formulation contains water. Without preservatives, the product will spoil quickly. Here are some natural and organic preservatives that are commonly used in skincare formulations:
1. Leucidal Liquid (Radish Root Ferment Filtrate)
- Source: Derived from fermented radish root with the bacteria Leuconostoc kimchii.
- Benefits: A natural preservative with antimicrobial properties, effective against bacteria and some yeasts.
- Usage: Typically used at 2-4% of the total formula.
- Notes: It’s ECOCERT certified and a popular choice for natural and organic formulations.
2. Geogard® ECT (Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbic Acid)
- Source: A broad-spectrum preservative made from naturally derived ingredients.
- Benefits: Effective against bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is gentle on the skin and suitable for sensitive skin products.
- Usage: Typically used at 0.6-1% of the total formula.
- Notes: Approved by ECOCERT and COSMOS for natural formulations.
3. Rosemary Extract (Rosmarinus Officinalis)
- Source: Extracted from rosemary leaves.
- Benefits: A natural antioxidant that helps extend the shelf life of oils in formulations by preventing rancidity. It has antimicrobial properties but is not strong enough to preserve water-based formulas.
- Usage: Typically used at 0.2-0.5% of the oil phase in formulations.
- Notes: Works well in conjunction with other preservatives to enhance effectiveness.
4. Grapefruit Seed Extract (GSE)
- Source: Extracted from grapefruits’ seeds, pulp, and white membranes.
- Benefits: It has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, especially effective in oil-based formulations.
- Usage: Typically used at 0.5-1% of the total formula.
- Notes: Often used as a preservative booster rather than the sole preservative in water-based creams.
5. Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
- Source: Derived from vegetable oils like sunflower or soy.
- Benefits: A powerful antioxidant that helps extend the shelf life of oils in your formulation by preventing them from going rancid.
- Usage: Typically used at 0.2-1% of the oil phase.
- Notes: While it is excellent for stabilizing oils, Vitamin E is not a broad-spectrum preservative on its own and needs to be combined with other natural preservatives if your cream contains water.
6. Potassium Sorbate
- Source: A naturally derived compound from sorbic acid (found in the berries of the mountain ash tree).
- Benefits: Effective against mold, fungi, and yeast, but less effective against bacteria.
- Usage: Typically used at 0.1-0.3% of the total formula.
- Notes: Best used in combination with another preservative for broader protection. It works well in water-based products.
7. Willow Bark Extract (Salix Alba)
- Source: Extracted from the bark of the willow tree.
- Benefits: Contains salicylic acid, which has natural antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. It can help extend the shelf life of natural products.
- Usage: Typically used at 1-3% of the total formula.
- Notes: Works best when combined with other preservatives for full spectrum protection.
8. Essential Oils (with preservative properties)
- Examples: Tea Tree, Lavender, Eucalyptus, and Rosemary.
- Benefits: These essential oils have natural antimicrobial properties that can help inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi in your product.
- Usage: Typically used at 0.5-2% of the total formula.
- Notes: While essential oils can provide mild preservative benefits, they are not strong enough on their own to be considered as broad-spectrum preservatives in water-based formulas.
9. Sodium Benzoate
- Source: A salt derived from benzoic acid, found naturally in some fruits like cranberries, apples, and plums.
- Benefits: Effective against yeast and fungi, but not very effective against bacteria.
- Usage: Typically used at 0.5-1% of the total formula.
- Notes: Often used in combination with Potassium Sorbate to improve effectiveness in water-based products.
Key Considerations:
- Combining preservatives: Some natural preservatives work better when combined with others to cover a broader spectrum of microbial growth (bacteria, yeast, and mold). For example, you can combine Potassium Sorbate with Sodium Benzoate or add Vitamin E to prevent rancidity in oil-based formulas.
- pH compatibility: Some natural preservatives work best in formulations with a specific pH range (e.g., Potassium Sorbate is most effective at a pH below 6). Always check the pH of your cream before choosing a preservative.
- Preservative boosters: Ingredients like Rosemary Extract and Grapefruit Seed Extract can be used as preservative boosters but generally need to be combined with stronger preservatives for full protection.
For water-based creams, using a combination of a natural broad-spectrum preservative (like Leucidal Liquid or Geogard ECT) with antioxidants like Vitamin E or Rosemary Extract will help maintain freshness and safety for an extended period. Always remember to test the shelf life and stability of your product before large-scale production.